Paddling the Calusa Blueway on Estero Bay
Along the Back Bay waters of Bonita Beach and Fort Myers Beach is the first phase of the Great Calusa Blueway Paddling Trail -a 190-mile marked canoe and kayak trail that meanders through the coastal waters and inland tributaries of Lee County.
The Estero Bay phase begins within the Imperial River (where Marker 1 lies) and continues through a winding course some 70 miles to Marker 48 at Bunche Beach.
Due to the September heat and vast territory to cover, it is recommended to break the trip into different stages to maximize …. and enjoy the adventure. Recommendations include leaving earlier in the morning because of the intense sun and warmth; sun screen because of that exposure; and paddling at a preferably higher tide so as not to paddle against the incoming tide.
Below is a marker-by-marker look at four stages completed on four different paddling days.
Stage #1 (3 1/2 hours/ markers 1-13/ Saturday, Sept. 5)
There is no clear parking area near marker 1 which is on the Imperial River and closer to the mouth of the bay than the Imperial River boat ramp off US 41. If you start there, expect to paddle about three miles before reaching that first designated marker.
When marker 1 is reached, follow an undulating maze through an inner trail in the mangroves which will take you to marker 1a and 1b past marker 2 to marker 3 at the trail’s exit point. (The letters on the markers appear to help locate the path so that there is no confusion if more than one direction opens up.)
Markers 4 through 7 hug the mangrove coastline of Bonita where newly constructed skyscrapers tower in the background. Between markers 6 and 7, the distance appears to be roughly two miles, so don’t fret. Some distances are shorter; some longer.
From marker 7, paddle directly across the bay to Big Hickory Island where marker 8 is visible just to the right of the Bonita Springs water tower. Note that there is a channel crossing close to marker 8 and from there another inner trail which harbors markers 8b and marker 9.
Once marker 9 is approached, the mouth of the short, inner trail opens up at New Pass with a clear view of the bridge. Paddle under the New Pass bridge until you see marker 10 at Dog Beach. Since this is the first “sandy landing” you encounter, feel free to take a break and refresh in the channel.
Markers 11-13 are within the inner waterway of Lover’s Key State Park. Marker 11 is in front of a mangrove island in the middle of the waterway, while marker 12 is attached to the bridge where the state park’s tram traverses. Marker 13 is at the north beach of Lover’s Key, which is at Big Carlos Pass. (Note: During low tide, the waterway has exposed sandbars and is more difficult to paddle through.)
Stage 2 (4 hours, 15 minutes/markers 13-22/ Sunday, Sept. 13)
Begin where you left off. Park at the north entrance of Lover’s Key and begin paddling at Big Carlos Pass where marker 13 sits.
Expect more than an hour’s paddle between marker 13 and marker 14. For some reason, marker 14 is in Estero near the mouth of Spring Creek across the bay from New Pass. Re-configuration may be needed.
Marker 15 is a much shorter distance away from marker 14 and can be reached, along with markers 15a, 16 and 17, by paddling along the mangrove coastline of Estero. Marker 16 has a channel crossing sign attached to the post to warn you of boat traffic.
You can see Big Carlos Pass from markers 18 and 19, but the circle is not yet complete. Marker 18 is at a point and marker 19 is tucked inside a smaller bay inlet toward the mainland. Markers 20 and 21, which are to the east side of Mound Key, are inside the same inlet.
At this point, the designed trail gets confusing again. Marker 22 is around Mound Key and on the southwest side of a set of mangroves islands. Realistically, this marker could have been called marker 14 since it is closer to marker 13. Again, re-configuration may be needed.
One way to get from marker 21 to marker 22 is to paddle counter-clockwise around Mound Key until you find marker 24 on the southwest side of the historic burial ground. From there, continue on a southwest course through a path inside another set of mangroves islands where marker 23 is hiding. Keep paddling until you see marker 22 at the mouth of the path and a view of the bridge at Big Carlos Pass.
With the circle complete, either paddle back to your starting point or reverse your course back to marker 24 for continued adventure.
Stage 3 (3 hours/ markers 22-33/ Sunday, Sept. 20)
For the second week in a row, the starting point is under Big Carlos Pass Bridge at the north entrance of Lover’s Key. Markers 22-24 should be familiar if you followed stage 2’s directions. Once at marker 24, continue a counter-clockwise paddle around Mound Key until you view marker 25a near the southern entrance of the historic island. If you haven’t visited Mound Key yet, it is a must stop. Just don’t forget the bug spray.
Continue the counter-clockwise paddle around the island until marker 25 becomes visible. From there, take a northeast course and cross the channel that leads to Estero River to find marker 26 at a point. Marker 27 appears to be hidden after an unsuccessful, futile attempt around a few mangrove islands netted no such sign, but marker 28 is visible and near another entrance to Estero River. (If an overnight stay is needed about this time, Koreshan State Park campground is four miles up the river near U.S. 41.)
The trail then moves away from the mainland towards the Beach where Markers 28a and 29 (situated near an oyster bed) line up for the straight course. Between markers 29 and 30 is yet another channel crossing. The Beach becomes more visible as you paddle by the Estero Bay Preserve State Park off the Fort Myers shoreline. Markers 31, 32 and 33 are easily accessible, while marker 33 is close enough to a familiar Beach canal to complete the stage.
Stage 4 (3 1/2 hours/ markers 33-48/ Sunday, Sept. 27)
Beginning at my home-base canal off of Lazy Way, this trip takes you back out into the mangroves to marker 33 and begins to dip into Hell Peckney Bay where marker 34 is exposed. From marker 33, you can see markers 34 and 35 line up in the distance.
Once in Hell Peckney Bay, paddle on a northeast course and find marker 36 partially hidden by overgrown mangroves. The sign for marker 37 is attached below a 25 MPH manatee zone sign in a channel. This is the beginning of a wide path where marker 38 is viewed between two mangrove islands and marker 39 lies.
A lettered marker or two for marker 39 (39a, 39b) could be used because there are too many forks without indicators between markers 39 and 40. After some searching, marker 40 was found after turning left at the first fork and paddling on a continued left course until another fork with a small path opening lies. Once inside this path, paddle to the right at the next fork and you’ll see marker 40 around the corner and at the mouth of another inner trail. Marker 40a sits at the end of that short trail with marker 41 clearly in sight.
Marker 42 is only a quarter of a mile away from 41 but is needed due to yet another fork in the trail. From there, marker 42a is off to the right when approaching the next fork, and marker 42b is around the corner and seen when entering a part of Hurricane Bay. Marker 43 is in another secluded area of hurricane bay. At the exit point of this trail is marker 43a with a channel crossing ahead sign attached to its post.
When you reach marker 44, the bay opens up for a full view of San Carlos Island. That marker warns you of another channel crossing and, once crossed, paddle toward Hurricane Pass bridge where the former Channel Mark Waterfront Restaurant is situated. You’ll see marker 44a on a post right before you head underneath the bridge. At this stage, you can paddle parallel to a boat channel until you reach the north end of San Carlos Island. Marker 44b sits across from the island’s north end near a mangrove island. Paddle into the Gulf and set a northern course to Bunche Beach where markers 45, 46 and 47 run parallel to the beach’s coastline. Marker 47 is close to the main beach area, while marker 48 is further up the coastline in a nook toward Sanibel Island. This is the final marker for Estero Bay, but the trail continues into San Carlos Bay, Pine Island Sound and Matlacha Pass. The second phase of the 190-mile trail is called Pine Island Sound, while a third phase is titled the Caloosahatchee River.
The fourth annual Calusa Blueway Paddling Festival -a 10-day celebration that includes cultural and eco-festivities, competitive races and tournaments, paddlers’ get-togethers, green activities, information from speakers and paddling instruction – is scheduled for Oct. 23 to Nov. 1 in various places in Lee County. Keep an eye out for weekly information regarding this tournament in the next two weeks.